https://www.isobelewing.com/silk-road-journey daily 0.75 2021-06-30 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568861090121-YI3KVO240NPIKEM2WMRL/IMG_1192.jpg Silk Road Journey https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568861167785-WW3U9JKQQGSC3LX2U4C9/IMG_1492.jpg Silk Road Journey https://www.isobelewing.com/blog daily 0.75 2024-11-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1625098605759-69SEARAIPRDQQN15ZQQ6/IMG_20190907_153208+%281%29.jpg Blog https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2020/9/21/a-gypsy-village-rutting-stags-honking-boars-and-two-kind-policemen monthly 0.5 2020-09-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1600714547684-DEH8ACK5PJ2VB2TDVH72/IMG-1486.jpg Blog - A Gypsy village, rutting stags, honking boars and two kind policemen https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1600714378082-OFW04465FKUYSTUYWED0/GPTempDownload.jpg Blog - A Gypsy village, rutting stags, honking boars and two kind policemen https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1600714301432-YKKXPGGXU659RG3UHYB6/GPTempDownload+%281%29.JPG Blog - A Gypsy village, rutting stags, honking boars and two kind policemen https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1600714466543-XNTOU6TTKP45LORW2665/IMG-1498.jpg Blog - A Gypsy village, rutting stags, honking boars and two kind policemen Where the police moved me to - and where I should’ve camped all along https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2020/1/9/final-days-on-the-silk-road-chinese-construction-leaches-and-newly-weds monthly 0.5 2020-01-13 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578748240112-Z6H2N2JOE6D71Q8V44Z0/IMG_1920.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578777902207-8QYRBUFXNOBWF0NL5K7Y/IMG-5818.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds From left: Father of the groom, mother of the groom, grandmother of the groom, myself, Gulzat, Jack and Azamat https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578796616383-G9ILQGSL8WMNSPWY3R6H/0019_18.jpeg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578795144385-GQIZT5VGXA51K8LXH8TO/IMG_2038.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578803098968-HZ42V3I0PKDQJ74TZIJ1/0008_28A.jpeg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578793617765-3XUA021G1V9AXUZ2PIQK/IMG_2035.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578736777756-UT7WLFICUUZ41KPPRLRJ/IMG_1908.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578796148249-2YRJ6NW2WGCJC9IK499D/0009_26.jpg+_.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578796489201-RM89J2IIZT8ISH1M26Z3/0034_34.jpeg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578796341500-WWVDN9L75MU84APU677F/0024_13.jpeg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578736893570-3KQ0TBSSGW9YRDOULQNL/IMG_1918.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578639494721-FI9DDYM85IB6BCQ1F01T/IMG_1826.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578793674606-1OMA1MZQFQUFV1EQH1YG/IMG_1992.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578777275498-1863O3OYUCNFH963O6FQ/IMG_1929.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578777633056-YICOGA1DZL0V0GP564EW/IMG_1930.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578793749008-1CC7FWI6UIIIQA7LZL6D/IMG_1931.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds The shower tent. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578793469743-X4NN886OZKBR2QJJLPVE/IMG_2044.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578777760573-2GT2TCYA0F6BNO9KL34F/IMG_1923.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578796242227-7GK0JN0AQFNCH7YUM4DA/0033_3A.jpeg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578639372175-9GA9AKF5WKH86HU31ITC/IMG_1792.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1578630601768-5ZDC7ELF9M4XAMNW3SEQ/IMG_1883.jpg Blog - Final days on the Silk Road; Chinese construction, leeches and newly weds PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/12/29/following-the-red-dirt-road monthly 0.5 2019-12-29 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577659781934-CAGM15HS34YW8OY58ZHF/IMG_1853.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577659846120-LFBUKGDI9MT2DX8LGQOD/IMG_1841.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577659975825-857YSZH2XA0FQ68UN404/IMG_1797.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577660255979-KF6GWPP363LMPFLSGBNR/IMG_1889.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577660324850-DXZ1ZCL84F8DA2FR9LNN/IMG_1876.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577660432345-HGNEB3E108BNV45YEF7Y/IMG_1864.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577660384084-UHF5GXXRBEO7B6Z70DNL/IMG_1862.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577659923913-UDOYLXJDO3O1IQYBU9S1/IMG_1795.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577660093535-IPTZDW981COPJPOPISJT/IMG_1887.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1577657859506-ZSANBW93L66AM52FTVPK/IMG_1785.jpg Blog - Following the red dirt road The offending hill leaving camp, looking nowhere near as steep as it was https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/11/19/5oedcyotzb8fx8500ycymhw67vp4iy monthly 0.5 2019-11-20 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1574202603282-Z89L92M4O3J67EIK4CBT/IMG-5782.JPG Blog - A man down, many hills up Jack with new friends. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1574224413859-6P774VLCWUIVS6V8RD3K/0005_33.jpeg Blog - A man down, many hills up PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1574202359906-KDSTTW2NOYKDKLJ2UN7K/IMG-5771.JPG Blog - A man down, many hills up PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1574204512072-H3B3OMO37PN0YB6CH2PB/IMG_20190922_134325.jpg Blog - A man down, many hills up PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1574202149085-CFUC8V56P5FPYJ38X360/0009_29.jpeg Blog - A man down, many hills up Three men very pleased with their cigarettes. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1574205918948-JTT3P765OHUNF25XYB45/0007_31.jpeg Blog - A man down, many hills up PHOTO: JACK EWING https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/10/21/the-shortcut monthly 0.5 2019-10-22 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571689592994-8OPNRYEGC65UJWW5FH1L/IMG_1745.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" Ed on the phone. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571689698058-2RDNJHBMUU8TJ656T5U1/IMG_1753.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" Waking up next to the lake. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571691366620-X53DQURGWZQ0KYDYORTO/IMG_1766.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571691266806-36KUV01PTYRB0NSXE2PC/IMG_1768.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" View from the yurt. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571689532238-TEM22QMWLPQQCUJ1ISTL/IMG_1749.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571689886542-T6BPY3VWUOG03JRLF1PH/IMG_1764.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" Toktugul Lake. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571691153188-WOURR6VIG0KZM8ABFEUX/IMG_1772.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571689472683-FBBQNQ3LTLV10C3JPWA9/IMG_1742.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" Lenin in the centre of Osh. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571690917555-JWY6M3SNHQZVRXANU6I6/DSCF5336+%282%29.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" Jack and me enjoying the Kumis. PHOTO: ED FREEDMAN https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571692038553-EBYK79K45LEOP1528ANM/IMG-5757.JPG Blog - "The shortcut" Our host. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1571690624398-JHT61ZMH9LHIBJVMLPR1/DSCF5321.jpg Blog - "The shortcut" PHOTO: ED FREEDMAN https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/30/crb2cdtzn04wh7warwcoh2zcnh6jhd monthly 0.5 2019-10-07 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570346946525-MN6TYSLOVQSOE2HGKXK3/IMG_1638.jpg Blog - Across the border PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570372419342-VATPW54BEBB7COZ04Q5P/LRM_EXPORT_31448498874820_20190920_175210496.jpeg Blog - Across the border Main street, Sary Tash. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570347733286-3CZU79ARTIZ25RMGICLG/IMG-5643.JPG Blog - Across the border Jack and our Austrian friend Wolfgang with our shower water https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570347388487-1ZTRUCTSEZQFPO0MTJGS/IMG_1645.jpg Blog - Across the border PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570187795614-YNPK2R3TCW5RPA3SJS4N/IMG_1628.jpg Blog - Across the border PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570347792654-W2SGCIJLA3OHGQKTREX2/IMG-5649.JPG Blog - Across the border Effort vs reward https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570348188200-KAOWLW96IPQPDV2LJVIY/IMG_1648.jpg Blog - Across the border PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570348371533-4M3JE8AYKWYYGPAIQX9V/IMG_1675.jpg Blog - Across the border PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570372305471-VKUBZJMNW1ZY9ZRNOX3Y/LRM_EXPORT_31391424447884_20190920_175113422.jpeg Blog - Across the border Donkey highway. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570372135320-A4733N7OW4LK8LVUBT02/LRM_EXPORT_31446780983138_20190920_175208779.jpeg Blog - Across the border Entering rainbow country. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570347284573-CYCPH9BQSNX8CZINBIR3/IMG_1643.jpg Blog - Across the border PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1570348596725-OKZSECZTRMNREO3WGRS0/IMG-5666.JPG Blog - Across the border Enjoying Jack’s invention - cheese and condensed milk on bread https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/28/2sdajvbwh79fil0jpkzyo3sx6y2axp monthly 0.5 2019-09-28 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569671834121-ZDSH8BUVLTS29OTR4KI1/IMG_1600.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion Steeper than it looks. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569671680183-4ITCDDW2R7ZYNQ9R2SKJ/IMG_1619.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion The next day’s downhill awaits. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569671737423-HJ7WJXEEZZPKDEVX7ZKH/IMG_1602.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion A view of Lake Karakul and a yak carcass. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569671912884-YX07PF1HHU0FXND69CKH/IMG_1613.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion Triumph. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569670863551-OTF6OVN8GOYU7ZQQSR5W/IMG-5634.JPG Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion Too cold to remove the helmet. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569671872780-JHV76NWSC2KKP2CV2B6W/IMG_1609.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion Kyzylart Pass, 4280m. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569672096467-YR3BOLLNX1P0AOTUIB8Y/IMG_1623.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569672006082-IG3KV760VZ6R6L615DJ4/IMG_1622.jpg Blog - Plateau panic and an unexpected reunion We wondered at how a couple barely beyond their teens ended up living in this cold valley in the no man’s land between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. PHOTO: ISOBEL EWING https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/26/a-new-foe monthly 0.5 2019-09-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569508242501-LQUVGBF47M0X75WKQLD7/IMG_1407.jpg Blog - A new foe A nice but awfully framed photo by one of the Russian tourists https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569496564609-N7Y84UYRFHQHH44QUZF8/IMG_1510.jpg Blog - A new foe Our little homestay, a haven to arrive at after the cold of the mountains. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569500654628-ZXOX214MBFCIYGHX78C4/IMG_20190912_185117.jpg Blog - A new foe PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569500742336-7NTTTFCRVNDZI4GI2WA6/IMG_20190912_102543.jpg Blog - A new foe Leaving Murghab. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569500259160-AI0X2DJ9KSXKYAVIUAIT/IMG_1584.jpg Blog - A new foe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569509100349-BN4B3XYBT9F6H6CZUQWY/IMG_1542.jpg Blog - A new foe PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569500853286-W3F90O94Q0BA3STIK0D2/IMG_20190913_105622.jpg Blog - A new foe The Polish man did well https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569507180553-BMKMTUQW5NNY60CX1T34/IMG_1393.jpg Blog - A new foe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569509519621-2J37IVCSLVE3825JPTVG/IMG_1479.jpg Blog - A new foe PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569510472669-NLI23N8OV03DJWRU2LZ7/IMG_1522.jpg Blog - A new foe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569510231156-X8VSF0J1WCTCQWLM7TR5/IMG_1494.jpg Blog - A new foe PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569509881329-O3H24AFX27MWDNF6TUTW/IMG_1587.jpg Blog - A new foe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569507111283-KRUPUKOWSR5PAY9XVPKY/IMG_1401.jpg Blog - A new foe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569498716099-P88J4QRAND15YDVF5D1U/IMG-5653.jpg Blog - A new foe Dining room of my dreams. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1569496407085-8UZDYF85VEOX2IQDBV8N/IMG_1526.jpg Blog - A new foe https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/18/elation-and-terror monthly 0.5 2019-09-19 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568858777602-1AGXUVCKDXUKKYCPDW1P/IMG_1347.jpg Blog - Elation and terror https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568857882912-ULXMFE1K3QWE5ZI3H8T1/IMG_1337.jpg Blog - Elation and terror Within a few kilometres back on the M41 we passed Lake Sasykkul, a brilliant sapphire in the arid landscape https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568859516736-NV3K7KM4VHNOK4BZGDX9/IMG-5550.JPG Blog - Elation and terror No herds or rough road surfaces here to inhibit gazing at the mountains https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568858324829-713MS4VPLKX03F9AA5OE/IMG_1339.jpg Blog - Elation and terror Alichur - a scattering of houses on a high plain pummeled by icy blasts that sent the dust billowing. Water is only accessible from a 50m well, the only shop stocked with eggs, sweets, noodles and some canned goods. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568862131882-V9X0AZGN74I31XXBCI8M/IMG_1343.jpg Blog - Elation and terror https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568862814641-YYDMINE13AHFGOREEP0S/IMG_20190907_092427.jpg Blog - Elation and terror Much more vigilance was required while riding in the Wakhan Valley. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568859773535-SXRY96UHBDHFG44EY9JM/IMG-5558.JPG Blog - Elation and terror https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/15/wakhan-valley-the-finale monthly 0.5 2019-09-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561113418-88P6ILK49TPD42NLDKIE/IMG_1279.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561462532-XKNKXSX2CHR8J6DV4JBT/IMG_1287.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561900691-SKWDX74JY5QR1T1G0AO4/image-asset.jpeg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561293156-3DLJLD1SSJNCBZRJJP56/152D4CF8-B0C2-4005-8CE5-38D31D099DAF.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale Mohammed could not understand our bare legs https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561674537-HZIYL6KOH5P84YTZDM4Q/IMG_1322.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale Salty Lake Chukurkul https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568562577278-XXHZY2PLNZNG4MGC2U3I/IMG-5532.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568564752831-TASOXHWHERPS6SNUY47L/IMG-5539.JPG Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale Tarmac and a tailwind, the two magic Ts https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561231128-VY8NAI0R3U66JEWV8V0P/IMG_1300.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568561557911-9XBCODUHPIED655DH9GL/IMG_1313.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale Windburnt atop the Khargush Pass https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568563412218-QECZ2XBM73GHWL5LRVRD/MVIMG_20190908_132219.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale Very relieved to be out of the wind and mildly concerned about cooking with petrol in a confined space https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568562162921-UV6V9ZQJ5ISD9H7KITCR/IMG_1307.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568562977358-CPT8JA7BGQLPW67SMTXZ/IMG_20190907_111401.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - the Finale PHOTO: JACK EWING https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/15/wakhan-valley-part-iii monthly 0.5 2019-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568536325703-GLAZJY3VPT8EXGGKG2W6/IMG_1272.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III Rolled from my tent at 6am to this view https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568539569352-P2A27I22MIIJB3ZNU8LD/91D890AB-2610-4275-B7E8-2E5D4916F2A2.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III More mint from a different shepherd for our morning chai https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568536598115-J7MQ827CBTNNL4ZGPHRF/IMG-5464.JPG Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III The morning after https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568538761069-O8RDV37S3L75MJ7VNZ0B/IMG_20190906_074444%231.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III In hindsight we were mad to choose this sandpit of a campsite https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568536793612-LFLR1GWX2XGWNI02TVYK/IMG-5473.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III The push https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568539230867-R693G9JRSSPOG7NV2CZW/IMG_20190906_170811.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III Thought this was the top, it was not https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568537279194-XX3Z0MAUP84BBQ3NP6TW/IMG-5472.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III The road claims a victim https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568535861747-REW005JQTTJT5RN0J3W1/IMG_1260.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III The absolute joy brought by a sand-free alpine meadow. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568536151328-VHKT5CMZALPK2PVVFBH7/IMG_1269.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568546118643-UYEED8YDTLKUFULT7WS3/IMG-5446.JPG Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III An hour before the pivotal decision https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568538449226-H5CG3RH07MLDYI2DCMAZ/coking.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley Part III Never has curry powdered rice, boiled eggs and raw carrots tasted so good https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/11/wakhan-valley-part-ii-the-grunt monthly 0.5 2019-09-15 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568190124498-BWBXMFGM2ZWE6UW5DD1T/IMG_20190904_155426.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" Where the road turned to sand. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568186655785-RSF7KDFDKCZNABOTY7OM/IMG_1246.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568191556378-F69V27VXWOBZ35SPEWO0/IMG-20190911-WA0001.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" Secret hot spring https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568191396248-9JKHYUA8HEW4H79S18PK/IMG-20190911-WA0000.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" Jack and our chai host with his bread-loving goats https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568185764942-A6LKYTPXQGC9NIH0VJ9R/IMG_1241.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568186811653-VYL0FG8R3BBPSANXO0XK/IMG_20190904_174456.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" The internal battle over whether pushing or cycling is easier. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568187265377-XRXNN7J8LOZDE9L66VSS/IMG_20190905_052527.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley - Part II - "The Grunt" https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/9/10/wakhan-valley-part-i monthly 0.5 2019-09-10 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568111702092-FGQ4NGP5QERCSWAZBWDY/IMG_1222.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568113295236-0N58E5NC6C1Y8903IKZN/MVIMG_20190905_173005.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568104851411-OCFJIZSA1UEW3JOUM5ND/IMG_1227.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I Walking to school for Afghans in the Wakhan Valley https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568111891045-WUBHXM14GYGNFR3WPKDM/IMG_1233.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I Dust storms aplenty https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568104270741-AO1T2QY7P4B59B6TRVND/IMG_1225.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568111996334-LP5CLO3FVK1R4NETOIYV/IMG_1236.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I The Hindu Kush or “Hindu Killer” mountains https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1568112408422-8Y7TT6IL6STTTRNJPSGQ/IMG_20190902_201525.jpg Blog - Wakhan Valley – Part I Me looking unusually nice in the beaded top Safia (third from right) gifted me and her husband insisted I put on immediately https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/8/30/when-crucial-gear-breaks monthly 0.5 2019-09-26 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567153689010-3777KHHEAYHHH5LX0EP3/IMG_1202.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter A few kilometres after the stove disaster we entered a beautiful gorge https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567177912692-9LX4GUWNW3S8KWQW9H93/IMG-5305.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter Oblivious to the immiment stove disaster, we crossed a gigantic valley https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567161050605-09PAC9KITLZLN5BUXGIP/biking.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter The hunger, the broken stove and the tummy rumblings can only detract so much from landscapes like this https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567177597509-COSH2K30QT9CISP13VI8/IMG_1145.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter We’ve grown used to observing rural life in Afghanistan from across the river https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567159983181-83JXN790KPS5DZF1IYN7/hamlet.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter Central Asian Ophelia https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567161485126-NB0QJ1JK3STQ9OUM8NQQ/pics.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567156472338-TKHUD44KXBYMNM9KIW9Q/IMG-5313.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter Camping riverside where that evening the mountains framed a phenomenal starry sky https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567159877399-6441Q17J6307FG2WMYXL/IMG-5335+%281%29.JPG Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter Will report back on whether the magician delivers https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567156799287-7EGX9RTX5JMRL12MAOLZ/IMG-5314.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter A stunning morning after we set off without a cuppa https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567155387351-COH6MVP44ZGE4UVF9T46/IMG-5310.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter The triumph of a successful non transaction https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1567155165253-XQJMUTY4EWYTHE1LKZ76/IMG_1192.jpg Blog - Despair, redemption and peanut butter Wistfully thinking of my pantry at home, where Pic’s peanut butter is in luxurious abundance. PHOTO: JACK EWING https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/8/24/afghanistan monthly 0.5 2019-08-25 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566710168698-1JM2DSMXEDUYD1IZ392Z/IMG_1121.jpg Blog - Afghanistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566710283927-J60ZBLV93MN3LA9S5V70/IMG_1055+%281%29.jpg Blog - Afghanistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566710050684-95ADO2TA8NDZJTC1RX3C/IMG_1087.jpg Blog - Afghanistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566711890792-21299QARDODLPGP0HVLB/IMG_20190821_190048.jpg Blog - Afghanistan Doesn’t do the magic of the landscape justice but these mountains will stay in my memory forever https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566710956956-5EELNVBE20WTY43RU38D/IMG-5265.JPG Blog - Afghanistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566712244612-HS61NOXYPUEA4MIMW1ZH/IMG_1107+%281%29.jpg Blog - Afghanistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566712125467-N1BKYKQ32BL4EJ0Y3Y0Z/IMG_1062+%281%29.jpg Blog - Afghanistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566712350388-F7UWHJZZSVOF0IPSGX17/IMG_1095.jpg Blog - Afghanistan https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/8/23/gjrgvxhjz70au8kqb8egek8ejmfn6a-InZXh monthly 0.5 2019-08-23 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566579720759-ZOCQ5DYXO3J5AIF35WDS/IMG-5119.JPG Blog - Left my dignity in a cotton field in Tajikistan The crafty fig vendor https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566581254832-2ZIZL0954Y8MA0Q1ZZOG/IMG-5129.JPG Blog - Left my dignity in a cotton field in Tajikistan Lake Nurek, blissfully unaware of the roadside squatting horrors to come https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566578372826-2XIU9V7M5SE25R8Z329M/IMG_1025.jpg Blog - Left my dignity in a cotton field in Tajikistan https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566580327351-UTIJSCFEBGEKZ5VNV2LR/IMG_1029.jpg Blog - Left my dignity in a cotton field in Tajikistan Between our campsite and Vose we stopped for water in a town called Danghara where these kind boys gifted me a watermelon. When we finally hacked into it 70km later, it was so worth lugging the extra 3kg. https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/8/20/the-tunnel-of-death monthly 0.5 2019-08-21 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566321092578-5ECF8HG0TIPZ8SQZCLJ5/IMG_20190813_173238.jpg Blog - The "Tunnel of Death" https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566322735803-6629UL3M5SHLKOHUW2Y8/IMG_5068.jpg Blog - The "Tunnel of Death" About halfway to the top of Anzob Pass, which sits at 2700m. Approx. nine oreos consumed each. https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566323040134-XMQVZVDYE2Q8ZXVFYPBZ/GOPR1599+%281%29.jpg Blog - The "Tunnel of Death" PHOTO: JACK EWING https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566324364408-UNS3U57RJDHKM2X0E1MV/IMG_0986.jpg Blog - The "Tunnel of Death" The Fan Mountains north of Dushanbe https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1566320389635-C2KKQ7CVF0QTVYS1HV7N/IMG-5069.jpg Blog - The "Tunnel of Death" Our saviour https://www.isobelewing.com/blog/2019/8/15/tajikistan-the-best-place-on-earth-for-freedom-camping monthly 0.5 2019-08-16 https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1565945374538-N9A79846AOYXKP7ZSL47/IMG-5043.jpg Blog - Tajikistan, the best place on earth for freedom camping? https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1565877480447-V5FBEE295IS14Y8UPG81/IMG_0970.jpg Blog - Tajikistan, the best place on earth for freedom camping? 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Credit: Sam Smoothy https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5c17269fb40b9df1377b1e7f/1557140091823-38OZ848O1XY82CE8O8EK/IMG_0235.jpg Blog - Nelson to Hanmer: Riding through the storm Lake Tennyson, where the mountains finally emerged. 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